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Kowi87

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  1. Grey Bitch! SimplyOEM+ SWAP na AVF

    Ze zderzaka jestem mega zadowolony, teraz mam dylemat co do sprzęgła 1. Zlecić wykonanie spieku pod obecny dwumas 2. Kupić dwumas BRD240 i tarcze sachs performance, niby na 550+NM, to rozwiazanie jest o tyle lepsze że przyszłosciowo wleci skrzynia DQT wiec odrazu bede miał sprzęgło
  2. Grey Bitch! SimplyOEM+ SWAP na AVF

    Zbliżamy sie do finiszu, Auto odpalone, wstępnie wgrana testowa mapa i bedzie zmiana sprzegła, 228makaland nie dał rady na jednomasie... wiec idzie 240 na dwumasie z BRD. A tu fotka po złożeniu Noi silnik gotowy pod montaż osłon, jeszcze brakuje chłodnicy paliwa
  3. bagged_B5

    Ja nie, kolega był i dostał zadanie wysyłać wszystkie b5ki do mnie, noi jest
  4. bagged_B5

  5. Audi A4 1.8T Avant "S4"

    co prawda inny raid ale to nie ta epoka
  6. Smerf z męskim silnikiem :)

    i jak wrazenia?
  7. Audi A4 1.8T Avant "S4"

    obszywaj swoją, a nawet pogrub ja a uzyskasz ciekawszy efekt nizten raid
  8. To folia wiec ciezko o poprawny efekt na zdjeciu, kamil nic nie wrzuca to fejsbukowe wrzuce
  9. Boost w liczniku

    First, i was looking for the perfect boost gauge that i could install without ruining the interior look...every option i saw, A-pillar, Vent, column, ashtray..... all did not suit my tastes....so i went after the install in the instrument cluster.hopefully this will help others trying to do this modWhats needed:T10T20Philips '+' screwdriversSlotted '-' screwdrivers10mm socket8mm socketOmori 45mm Boost gaugeDremel with cutting wheel...and sanding wheelwhite markerhot glue gunpliersBravery.... lots of BraveryOptional:Meguires Plastic PolishHere we go:INITIAL DISASSEMBLY:Removal of Instrument Cluster:STEP 1lower the steering wheel and pull it towards the driver (as far as it will go)pull off the small trim on top of the steering column, this will expose two T20 screws. remove screwsSTEP 2slowly pull out instrument cluster, and working from the left side (i am not sure how this is in RHD vehicles, but i think it is the same), remove the three harnesses behind the instrument cluster....and slowly pull out the instrument cluster, this will take a little finesse.(no image)STEP 3Remove the lower knee bolster. First remove the fuse panel cover, this will expose two 8mm bolts....there are two more underneath the bolster.(no image)DISASSEMBLY OF INSTRUMENT CLUSTER:STEP 4pry off the top cover, there are three tabs on top and two on bottom...take your time...eventually this will come off... you can use a thin slotted screw driver to help wedge between the two haves of the instrument cluster.STEP 5remove two of these T10 screws from behind the cluster....and...remember to put them back (i forgot to do this)Top half off:Top and Bottom half off:DISASSEMBLY OF THE BOOST GAUGE:STEP 6remove the cover.... slowly pry off the cover from the back, working around the gauge, and using a thicker and thicker screwdriver....eventually it will just pop off:Picture of boost gauge and boost sensor:POLISHING THE PLASTIC GLASS:OPTIONAL STEPWhile everything was apart i decided to polish the glass.... i used Meguires Plastic Polish.... it worked FANTASTIC!Before:After Polishing:PLACING THE GAUGE AND FITMENT:STEP 7Placing the gauge near the back of the front cover, you can see what plastic you need to trim to allow the gauge to fit:STEP 8Marked:And Cut: note, in this picture i marked where i would cut the edges of the cluster to allow proper fitment of the gauge (STEP 9):And cut:STEP 10Use hot glue to fix the gauge in place. Gauge hot glued in:Front shot:BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR INSTALL:STEP 11Remove carbon fiber trim covering fuel pressure regulator.STEP 12Remove Cowl trim and rubber trimSTEP 13Add T-connector to fuel pressure regulator vacuum tube...this is the only tube with this "cloth" covering (GREY ARROWS). good luck in finding it... mine was buried! add T-connector and line (GREEN ARROWS)STEP 14 and 15Running the line behind the instrument panel: First insert into gasket marked (1),then remove the triangle gasket (2), cut an 'X' and feed the boost pressure sensor wire (not tubing, but the electrical wires) into the firewall.... NOTE: i placed a lamp here facing the opening...this allows you to "see the light" from inside the car.STEP 16Everything in place: (1) boost pressure sensor attached to firewall with double-sided tape. (2) boost line - vacuum/boost tubing, (3) in-line filter, (4) T-connector, inserts in-between fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.(5a) boost wires, (5b) running through firewall:REASSEMBLY OF INSTRUMENT CLUSTER (PAINFUL)STEP 17Remove the Voltmeter gauge. (The area that needs to be cut is marked) Voltmeter? we don't need no stinkin' voltmeter...... you want me to help you with the voltmeter? okay.... are your lights on? yes? then you have 13 volts.... now cut the damn thing!!STEP 18Cut the circuit board to allow place for the boost gauge....take your time here....STEP 19Cut tab from front housing as shown:STEP 20Run the wires through the area where you cut the tabs to the boost gauge and tape down.(no image)STEP 21Put the instrument cluster together, opposite of disassembly.(no image)STEP 22Run the white wires to lights. (no image)STEP 23Run the green and red wires to switched ignition. i used the switched ignition point beneath the first relay from the LEFT. there is a 10mm nut that you screw down and use to lock down the wire. (no image)STEP 24Run the black wire to ground. i used the 8mm bolt directly above the fuse box (no image)STEP 25put everything back together.Everything back together and working!!
  10. Ja też widział w internetach
  11. Fotele z B6/7 do B5

    FrontBracketbyTony Bozeglav, on Flickr RearBracketbyTony Bozeglav, on Flickr
  12. Fotele z B6/7 do B5

    I couldn't find a lot of information online on how to built seat brackets after purchasing my b6 s4 recaros early this week. I was able to find a digram and modified it to better fit and make install easier. Follow at your own risk.Materials Needed for one seat bracket:Steel tubing 1/8" Thick (11 gauge): 2 feet 1" x 2", 2 feet 1" x 1"2 x (M12 x 30mm bolts)2 x (M12 x 40mm bolts)4 x M12 Washer4 x M12 Locking NutGrinder wheels, assorted drill bits.Here is the original diagram, it was such low quality you could barely read the dimensions. I cleaned it up. Based on the diagram I decided to use rectangular steel tubing. For each seat I used about 2 feet (~19.625") of 2" x 1" Steel Tubing 1/8" Thick (11 gauge) and 2 feet (~22.125") of 1" x 1" tubing of the same thickness. The rectangular piece bolts into the front with the two original 6mm allen bolts, the square piece slides into the b5 seat rail and then the b6 seat rail bolts on top of it.I used an angle grinder to do all the cutting and cordless drill to make the holes. Each bracket takes a couple hours to make.Nearly finished bracket next to uncut steel tubing: Dirty Workshop: Finished Bracket: Finished Bracket #2: Finished Bracket #3:http://i.imgur.com/EBwQw9d.jpgAccess Hole for Allen Bolts (cut with angle grinder) Measurement #1: Finished Bracket #4 Access hole and oval-ed hole for rail bracket: I oval-ed the holes on the rail bracket to allow slight side to side adjustability before bolting the seat down. I also oval-ed the holes for the front allen bolts.Measurement #2 Measurement #3 Measurement #4 Measurement #5 Top View: Side View: Underside View: Mounted front Bracket: Mounted Seats: Directions for Mounting:First test fit the front bracket and determine which way it needs to be facing. The bracket is pushed further right/left depending on which way it is turned. Next bolt the front bracket to the b6 seat rail. Use 2 of the 30mm M12 bolts. I'd advise getting allen head bolts as the hex head were kind of hard to tighten.Next slide the back bracket into the stock b5 seat rail. Move seat into car and line up allen holes with front bracket. Loosely tighten front bracket with the 6mm allens.Next line up back bracket by sliding it on the rail. Use the 40mm bolts to bolt it in with the nut side facing down. I had to shorten one of my bolts to fit.Ensure that the seat is in the best position then torque all the bolts tight.Wiring info:The b6 recaro seat uses a 4 wire seat belt sensor while the b5 uses a two wire. I decided to not connect the seat belt sensor.The b6 seat uses a dual stage airbag while the b5 uses a single stage, I decided to not splice the yellow airbag plug. I believe you can use resisters to get rid of the air bag light.I cut the connectors off the b5 seat and match up the wires on the green and red plugs. The b6 seat will have extra wires you don't need to use along with an extra black plug.Let me know if any information needs to be changed to improve this diy.
  13. tapatalk nie nadaje sie do uploadu, tak samo linkowanie z FB, wtedy giną zdjecia
  14. W feldze z rantem 18cali 312 wydaje sie olbrzymia wizualnie
  15. Fejk rs4 tdi by szafa

    To przeciez kupno drugiego auta